Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Kiyomizu-dera(5): Kiyomizu-no-butai: overlooking the city of Kyoto


Now proceed to the main hall of Kiyomizu-dera. 

Around you, you will see statues of Buddha which are said to have the power to dispel people’s sins. After observing the statues in the hall, go out onto the famous Kiyomizu-no-butai, the veranda of this temple. 

The present veranda was built in 1633. The height of the veranda is equivalent to a four-storied building and juts right out over the edge of the cliff where the temple is built, so the view of Kyoto City from this spot is outstanding. 

The veranda slopes down a little towards the edge, so as you walk towards the outer limits, you may feel almost as though you are going to fall over the cliff. 

This veranda was built as a place to offer a variety of entertainments for the Buddha statues enshrined in the main hall, with traditional music, Noh, Kabuki dramas, and sumo all having been performed here. 

As you stand on the veranda, try to imagine one of these entertainments being performed in this idyllic setting.

 Surrounded by the trees and greenery of the mountains, this “open-air stage” makes an exquisite theater.





Kiyomizu-dera(4): Sanju-no-to: a symbol of the Higashiyama mountains


Behind Sai-mon stands Sanju-no-to, meaning “three-storied pagoda.” 

A rare Buddha statue is found inside the building. The original pagoda was built in 847, but the pagoda you see today is a reconstruction built in 1632. 

The pagoda is widely known as the symbol of the Higashiyama mountain range surrounding the city of Kyoto. 

With a height of about 30 meters, it is the largest three-storied pagoda in Japan. 

Standing in the downtown regions of Kyoto and looking towards the Higashiyama mountains in the distance, you can easily spot the red pagoda. 

The backdrop of the green mountainside and the striking red of the pagoda blend together beautifully to create a stunning landscape. 

As you make your way back from this temple, turn back toward the Higashiyama mountains and look up at the pagoda; seen from below in this way, the pagoda presents quite a different aspect compared to how it appears from near the temple. 

This stunningly beautiful historic pagoda has watched over the city of Kyoto for 1,200 years. 





Kiyomizu-dera(3): Sai-mon: the entrance to nirvana


Next to Nio-mon stands Sai-mon, meaning “west gate” in reference to the direction in which the structure faces. 

Colorful patterns are drawn on its pillars in bright colors. Gilt ornaments and sculptures add to the spectacular appearance of the gate. 

Why does Sai-mon face west? The reason lies in the belief that nirvana is to be found in the west. 

When the sun sets, the sky behind the gate turns a mysterious pale orange—the color that is believed to typify the gateway to Nirvana. 

Throughout the ages, countless people must have uttered a silent prayer for their souls to rest in peace as they watched the sunset through this gate. 

From here, you can see the whole of Kyoto City spread out beneath you. 

If you visit this temple in the late afternoon, be sure not to miss the stunning view of Kiyomizu-dera during the sunset, which is without a doubt the finest view of the temple. 




Kiyomizu-dera(2): Nio-mon: guarded by powerful devas


Climb up a steep approach to get to the temple. 

Just as you are starting to feel a little short of breath, you will see a brightly colored gate.

 This gate—Nio-mon, meaning a gate guarded by a Buddhist deity called a “deva”—is the main gate of Kiyomizu-dera.

 It is an imposing two-story structure, measuring about 10 meters from side to side. 

Because of its color, it is also called Aka-mon, meaning “red gate.” On both sides of the gate, you will see huge devas over three meters in height looking down at you. 

In Buddhist mythology, a “deva” is a guardian who prevents evil spirits from entering the temple precincts.

Let us look at the deva up close; its lively, muscular body is an impressive sight. 

Now, take a look at the expression on its face; the deva’s wide-open eyes indicate its courage and readiness to expel evil spirits. 

Thanks to the behind-the-scenes support provided by these two devas, the temple has continued to thrive for over 1,200 years. 





Kiyomizu-dera(1): The temple that embodies the soul of Kyoto


Kiyomizu-dera overlooks the city of Kyoto from its location in the foothills of the Higashiyama mountain range. 

Built in 778, this temple represents the spirit and soul of Kyoto. Its vast stage, constructed on the edge of a cliff, is famous all over the world as an enduring symbol of Kyoto itself. 

The temple’s wooden structure features a number of elaborate architectural techniques, based on wisdom passed down since the ancient era. 

The array of different temple buildings forming a route around the foot of the mountain shows a full range of beautiful architectural styles. Integrated with the undulating terrain that surrounds it, Kiyomizu-dera embodies the city of Kyoto. 

Walking around the temple area is a chance to experience the awe-inspiring atmosphere created by its history, as a place of pilgrimage for those living in this ancient capital for over 1,200 years. 

A distant view of the city of Kyoto with the stage of Kiyomizu-dera in the foreground will be an unforgettable moment in your Kyoto trip.




Monday, October 17, 2016

Daisen-in(7): Sho-in-no-ma: where Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Sen no Rikyu enjoyed taking tea


There is an interesting tradition about a room called Shoin-no-ma, or drawing room, located to the northeast of Hojo. 

This room once was a tea house called Suisho-shitsu, where the grand tea master Sen no Rikyu and Toyotomi Hideyoshi once enjoyed taking tea together. 

Toyotomi Hideyoshi is the man who unified Japan in the Warring States period in the 16th century. 

It is said that while enjoying a cup of green tea, Toyotomi Hideyoshi all of a sudden ordered Sen no Rikyu to carry out a flower arrangement on the spot. 

Using his imagination, Sen no Rikyu responded to the request by using a stone that lay in the garden as a vase and placing flowers in the stone. 

Seeing this quick response, Toyotomi Hideyoshi praised Sen no Rikyu’s innovative idea of placing the flowers in such a simple vase as an example of out-of-the-box thinking. 

However, the close relationship between Sen no Rikyu and Toyotomi Hideyoshi didn’t last long. 

Later, Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered Sen no Rikyu to commit seppuku—an act of ritual suicide more commonly known as hara-kiri among English speakers—after he supposedly took offence at Sen no Rikyu’s creation of a second floor in the San-mon gate of Daitoku-ji where an image of Sen no Rikyu was enshrined. 

It is said that Toyotomi Hideyoshi was furious because the notion of passing under the feet of Sen no Rikyu, his inferior, was a deep humiliation for him. 

However, the real reason for his order remains a mystery. 

What do you suppose they talked about in this tea house 400 years ago?

 It is interesting to speculate what could have happened in this small room at that time.




Daisen-in(6): A dry landscape garden created for Zen practices


The Hojo garden of Daisen-in is a garden which had a major impact on the generations which came after. 

Before this garden came into existence, gardens had been created for ornamental purposes and sometimes in order to show off the power of their influential owners to their guests. 

However, the dry landscape garden of Daisen-in was created by the head priest Kogaku Soko for carrying out Zen practices. 

A dry landscape garden is a garden style that represents natural features, such as mountains and rivers, without using water. 

Originally, monks believed that the ideal place for Zen training was untamed nature, a place where monks could reflect on themselves in a tranquil natural environment. 

Kogaku Soko tried to recreate this ideal practicing environment in the limited space of a temple located in the city. 

Through grasping the very essence of Zen, Kogaku Soko’s passion allowed him ultimately to create a garden great enough to have a significant influence on gardens in Zen temples throughout the country. 

Focus your thoughts as you look at this garden. 

This is a chance to catch a glimpse of the very essence of the Zen spirit.